A Fine Dessert

finedessert2

Biscuits. Cobblers. Sweets. Dessert. Those are my favorite things to cook. When I saw that Sophie Blackall had illustrated a book about a dessert, I was on it.

The book starts and ends with blackberries — literally. Blackall squished them into a paste and used it to paint the muted endpapers. The endpapers' purple and black sets the scene and grabs the attention of the reader. The story is straightforward — the history, through four centuries, of one particular dessert: blackberry fool. “Mmmmm. Mmmmm. Mmmmm.” The first time the dessert is made, it’s 1710. The cooks (“a girl and her mother”) pick the berries, squish them, whip the cream with twigs, chill the finished blackberry fool in an ice pit, and later eat it at the table, warmed by a fireplace fire. The next time the dessert is made in the book, it is a century later, 1810, and another girl and her mother repeat the recipe. This time the cooks are enslaved people. And now the cream is beaten with a metal whisk, but the recipe is still the same, and the warm relationship between mother and daughter remains the same as well. As the recipe is prepared two more times, in 1910 and 2010, the reader realizes the gentle pattern of the story as she sees the differences between whisks (twigs to metal to egg beater to electric mixer) and strainers (muslin to tin sieve to colander to food processer) and plans (invented recipe to cookbook to internet recipe) and all the ways to refrigerate the whipped dessert. The delicious dessert and community around the table are the constants.

Blackall and Jenkins could have avoided the challenge of setting the 1810 scene on the plantation. They did not. They could have simply chosen a family without slaves or servants, but they did not. They clearly approached the situation thoughtfully. The enslaved daughter and mother’s humanity is secure as they work together and enjoy each other, despite their lack of freedom. In the 1810 table scene — the only time in the book when the cooks don't eat the dessert at the dinner table — each of the African American characters depicted has a serious look on his or her face (i.e., there is no indication that anyone is enjoying their work or, by extension, their enslavement) while the children in the family attend to their parents and siblings or are distracted by a book or a kitty under the table. In its own way, the little nod to books and pets is also a nod to the privilege of the white children. They don't have to serve. They don't have to fan the family. They get to eat. Hidden in the closet, the African American mother and daughter have a rare relaxed moment away from the eyes of their enslavers.

In the book’s final dinner table scene (in 2010), we see Blackall’s current world: a community meal, filled with people of all ages and backgrounds. I imagine it is not unlike the dinner parties she attends in her diverse Brooklyn neighborhood.

Blackall's art has a distinctive, recognizable style. Each face is round with eyes set wide across the nose. The background details — tiny leaves, stones in the wall, the way the chimneys smoke, the darkening skies as the sun goes down — add emotion to the text. The repeated motifs (four sepia vignettes on each dessert-preparation page; three vignettes of sweating faces working on whipping the cream per page; and the concluding dinner table scene) weave the book together in a gentle way.

Since I have already read some online talk about the plantation section, I assume the committee will have, too. I know that we all bring our own perspectives to reading illustrations, and I trust that the committee will have a serious, open discussion about the whole book and see that the choice to include it was a deliberate one. Perhaps the committee will wish Blackall had set her second vignette in a different place, perhaps not. Will it work for the committee? I have no idea. But I do know that a large committee means there will be all sorts of readers and evaluators, with good discussions.

Extensive historical and illustrator notes add much to the story, and the source notes make me want to find an old recipe for blackberry fool and whip some up for myself. I think I will use my electric mixer, though.

 

 

 
Robin Smith
Robin Smith
Robin Smith is a second-grade teacher at the Ensworth School in Nashville, Tennessee. She is a reviewer for Kirkus and The Horn Book Magazine and has served on multiple award committees.
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G. G.

There are some uncomfortable expressions in terms of illustrations. However I think the book is a good read. I did appreciate that slavery was discussed and that the mother and daughter overcame inspite of their harsh situation.

Posted : Jul 12, 2023 05:13


Janet Hamilton

Just read another 2015 book, Sewing Stories: Harriet Powers' Journey from Slave to Artist. I noticed that this book, by a Caucasian author and African American illustrator, portrays Harriet as living in slavery with her mother well into her childhood; I would say she's a teenager the last time her mother is referenced. Also, every character who is a slave is portrayed with a smile on his or her face. It's a great book, yet I would say it whitewashes slavery and Reconstruction far more than A Fine Dessert, and I can't find any of the sort of criticism that A Fine Dessert has received.

Posted : Dec 17, 2015 10:55


Bila Majina

Contrary to the views previously expressed, I see the final scene of the book as the most problematic, and yet the most revealing, in that the scene of a generic contemporary dinner party depicts both the point-of-view and subconscious value system of the author and illustrator. In a book that explores issues of social dominance and progress over time, those now invited to participate “at the table” so-to-speak are indeed multi-ethnic, but have now cast off their heritage, as has everyone, in favor of an egalitarian culture where race and gender are seemingly interchangeable. If anything, this is the idealistic, self-congratulatory, “candy-coated” image that benefits the dominant culture in mass media, quite likely pervading both the New York Times and the Caldecott committee. In a Liberal, individualist-oriented society, social and technological progress now allow for a malleable identity, self-created rather than inherited. In such case, the homemade blackberry fool celebrated in the book represents a cultural artifact that is both real, wholesome and authentic. The nostalgia expressed nurtures existential insecurities of loss created when traditional values from the past have been cast aside or when objects that define our world are no longer created by our own hands. Not that this is a bad thing necessarily - for the point-of-view of the author and illustrator is one among many. Indeed, Emily Jenkins and Sophie Blackall are socially-responsible, intelligent and sophisticated artists uniquely capable of telling a complex, sensitive story in a nuanced manner. Yet because this view happens to correspond to the present default culture prevalent in media today, its dominance can hold precedence over the myriad of other viewpoints that may not have the benefit of the same level of exposure. More to the point, this view can be especially distasteful to those who are direct decedents of those who were enslaved and who now witness their own narratives far too often disregarded by the mainstream and at worst co-opted. In the image of the dinner party at the end of the book, some of my questions are these: What would the African-American woman at the party think of celebrating a dessert that her ancestors served to their enslavers? What does the blackberry fool represent to her? What would she have brought to the party instead that would be meaningful to her? Why are all the couples multi-racial? What dessert would be special to other guests of non-Western European heritage? Why are most of the guests fair-skinned? Why are all the males fair-skinned? To what extent does the image promote assimilation over true inclusion? What would the party have looked like if the hosts were African-American or something else? What would the party have looked like if the guests were mostly African-American or something else? Are we to surmise that the issues related to dominance and subjugation have now been fully resolved? Is the African-American woman today equally free to define her own identity in society as others at the table or is that a convenient myth? And ultimately, how would we interpret the images of the enslaved mother and daughter if the final scene were portrayed from a different perspective? Authors and illustrators of children’s literature are required to make difficult choices about relatively small, and often subtle, details given the required efficiency inherent in the medium. In this book, I actually don’t believe that the images of the enslaved mother and daughter white-wash their condition or themselves racially-insensitive. In fact, these images are consistent with age-appropriate images depicted by African-American authors dealing specifically with Slavery or with images contained in age-appropriate books that depict the Holocaust. The need to hide in the closet is a reasonable strategy to convey the brutality of the period to very young readers. Nevertheless, this allusion alone is not enough without a more deliberate indication of the brutality of this period. Unlike the Holocaust, the extent of the violence of Slavery and the effects of its legacy is a topic that has been consciously and systematically suppressed in this country. For this reason, the author and illustrator have an additional burden to present the truth of that time period, even if that is not the focus of the book, given that no shared accepted historical account of this period exists. The brutality of Slavery cannot be left open for personal interpretation by a potentially unenlightened reader. Diligent research and attention to detail do not alone provide an accurate understanding of this historical context nor of depth of the atrocities committed. Perhaps the true context would be made more vivid, if the enslaved daughter were of mixed-ancestry (rather than the boy at the party) or if the mother and daughter, after having labored so long to prepare the dessert, were ultimately denied the occasion to eat it at all. In the end, author and illustrator need to be particularly conscious, not only of historically accurate detail, but also of the depiction of historical context and the implications of their own vantage point. Ironically, the idealistic vision represented here can serve to hamper further social progress of the kind glorified in the book.

Posted : Nov 10, 2015 06:34


margie

As an educator, teacher and parent, I'm truly sad and disappointed things like this keeps happening. Worse, white authors and illustrators are simply given a pass by their racism by simply saying sorry. Why not just just pulled the book off the shelf completely and give the money to Title 1 schools to either buy books for their library or pay for more staff. This author apparently have lived a life far removed from people of color or worse believed that slaves were happy. The problem unfortunately is not just the author and illustrator but the publisher who didn't review this book well. The reason for their failure is sadly probably similar to the author and illustrator...living in a white world where people of color are in the shadows and not given an opportunity to work in the "white world" of publishing or anywhere that doesn't follow their narrative beyond the "happy slave." Not surprising that the author and illustrator are two white women....depicting black women this way. No one should be making money on this book...no one. The author, illustrator and publisher should not be lauded for such a racist book.

Posted : Nov 07, 2015 04:14


Sergio R.

Thank you for posting the whole conversation. It's so good to hear the different points of view with no shouting and no words taken out of contest. I love what Sean says at the end.

Posted : Nov 05, 2015 03:06


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